London Food Review : Fancy Crab

With a name like that, it is pretty obvious what this place is all about.

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Upon entering, I am immediately attracted to the striking blue and bright orange upholstery that contrasts against the dark wooden floorboards, breaking up this well-lit space. There is a hidden symmetry to the design scheme (interiors by DesignLSM) which I find rather pleasing and peaceful. Striking tiles in modern teal hug the columns, framing what is a theatrical glass display screen showcasing their star ingredient – the stunning Red King Crab. There is a bar to my right and some booth seating to my left to accommodate groups and cozy dates. There is a hint of cool nautical glamour to this exquisite space.

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I am meeting my friend and fellow travel blogger Priyam (you can check out her blog here). FC have recently launched their brunch menu and I thought it would be a great idea for us to check it out whilst catching up on the latest news of our lives!

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The brunch menu is short and sweet – just five items, all terribly tempting. After a lot of umming and ahhing, we end up ordering four out of five items! So much for watching my weight!

The Crab and Nori Waffles (£9.5)Hot Waffles, Pickled Red Crab, Poached Eggs, Wild Rocket, Gruyere Cheese Sauce sounds right up my street. The waffles are soft and warm; the smothering cheese sauce adding a salty and comforting touch to the delicate, sweet, ‘crabby’ flavours.

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The Fancy Crab Hash (£10.5)Potato and Kale Hash, Marinated Heritage Tomatoes, Duck Egg and Seaweed Butter – is a salubrious mish-mash of snappy leaves, broken potatoes and crab meat. There are loads of lovely flavours and textures, although the crab here gets overshadowed by everything else that’s going on the plate. I say this is more of a glorified side dish than a main event and perhaps better for sharing.

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But what you don’t want to share is the King Crab Benedict (£11.5)  – Picked Red Crab, Toasted Muffins, Avocado and Smoked Chilli, Yuzu Lime Hollandaise. Both in terms of presentation and taste, it is the standout dish for me. There is this juicy, luscious crab meat, lavishly slathered with smooth, frothy sauce. A perfectly poached egg sits perched on top, threatening to ooze the bright orange yolk at the slightest nudge. This is hangover food with a touch of sophistication and class. As far as brunch dishes go, this will forever be on my list of all time favourites.

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Sweet relief is provided by the Buttermilk Blueberry Pancakes (£7.5) – Yoghurt, Maple Glaze, Toasted Hazelnuts. Freshly made warm spongy waffles comes doused with syrup and flecked with crunchy nuts. It is surprisingly light and not sickly sweet, ideal to share after a heavy meal.

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Service oscillates between slow and forgetful to quick and efficient (depending on who you asked).

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When Fancy Crab first opened, it received a rather scathing review by a famous restaurant critic, so much so that I didn’t want to touch this place with a barge pole. However, having tried their brunch dishes, I am tempted to give them a big thumbs up. They have either upped their game since that review or there was nothing to worry about in the first place. Either way, it is safe to say that I liked their food enough to warrant a comeback. But don’t just take my word for it. Try it out for yourselves and let me know what you think.

Location : 92 Wigmore St, London W1U 3RD

More information can be found here.

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